Written: by Estelle Roure
Photography: Marie Josée Bédard
This is a story of passion and persistence. First time I met Millika, 8 years ago, she was standing behind a small table, offering just a few breads in Al Shaqab equestrian center who had organised a community market. And she had a baguette. For any French expat in Qatar, baguette (and good bread in general) is THE sacred Graal to find. I could not miss that one. I bought it and we started to talk: quickly the same passion for bread brought us together.
At that time, behind her tiny table and less then 10 breads on it, Millika shared her dream with me: she wanted to have her own place and offer breads, sandwiches and a few cakes. The vision was there.
If you are looking for a role-model who can inspire you by her passion, her drive, her resilience, look no further. Millika sure knows about flexibility in life and pursuing your dreams. She changed careers a few times, always adjusting to what her heart and her values were telling her.
But let’s go back in time to even before that day in Al Shaqab. Millika first got interested in sourdough bread when she started to experience some gluten intolerance. She then found out, that contrary to most breads leavened with yeast, bread made using sourdough is fundamentally better for the body as the bacteria in the sourdough helps break down the gluten within the flour, making it more digestible. She dived into sourdough bread making.
What’s the thing about ”Sourdough” bread? And why is it the “it” bread?
The difference between sourdough bread and regular bread is the use of yeast and the process. To rise nicely any bread needs to go through a fermentation process. This process is either created by yeast “saccharomyces cerevisae” or by natural fermentation. Yeast is totally natural and totally fine, used in reasonable amount. Even, some “sourdough” breads that you can buy in the shops have had the help of a tiny amount of yeast as it really helps with fermentation. Make no mistake: there’s absolutely nothing wrong with yeast which is a wonderful and natural product that allows the bread to ferment and rise quicker. Hence the fact that since the 1940’s bakers generalised the use of yeast, to increase production and sales.
But sourdough is the oldest way of making bread and is using naturally occurring yeast and lactic acid bacteria. We use the word “sourdough” to talk about the (very long) process, but also when talking about the bread.
Millika has been cultivating and nurturing a colony of (edible and safe) microbes and bacteria called “starter”. The starter is a weird slimey thing (only water and flour) who needs to be “fed” regularly, like a baby to maintain a good level of active microbes and bacteria. Some bakers like Millika have had their starter for years and even generations. This is this starter and this concentration of microbes and bacteria that can process flour and create a whole world of chemical reactions. The main result of this chemical reaction is the dough raising. The other main chemical reaction that you get with sourdough and you don’t get with regular yeast is the fact that lactic acids contribute to the production of enzymes that make the bread more digestible and more nourishing[1]. Hence the fact that sourdough breads are a favourite for persons with gluten intolerance: with the fermentation process, the gluten protein are already digested by the enzymes.
[1] If you are interested by the whole chemical process, Vanessa Kimbell’s “The Sourdough School, the ground breaking guide to making gut-friendly bread” will be your reference. (Kyle books, 2018)
Enough of chemistry and let’s go back to smells and flavours of Millika’s bakery!
In the world of baking, I’ve always felt strongly for bread makers like Millika whose role is to provide daily bread. In many cultures, bread is the backbone of the meal. And when times are unbelievably hard, and when finding food is a struggle, bread is the one and only food you always try to bake or get first.
Flour, water, salt and leavening agent are the four pillars of bread. Well, actually you can add other ingredients: passion, constant dedication and practice. The beauty about bread is that although it could be seen as “just a mix” or “just a formula” of basic ingredients (flour and water), it’s way more than that.
First it takes time: time to feed the starter to reach a point of fermentation that is optimum. Then mix it to flour, water and salt. And let it sit and rest. And then come the folds, regularly, every hour and more rest of the dough in between the folds. And more rest in the fridge for the fermentation process to slowly happen. 48 hours. The longer the better.
Secondly, a baker like Millika needs to pay attention to every detail and literally “care” about the loaves. Bread is highly influenced by the environment: the temperature of the air, of the ingredients, the humidity in the air… A sourdough starter and sourdough loaves are like babies: you need to be constantly aware of the environment, always understanding how they are, how the loaves “feel”, paying attention to their needs and even “feeding” the starter.
Look at her in her bakery: smelling the sourdough, checking its consistency, feeling the density of the loaves under her fingers when folding and shaping them. Making sourdough bread is about consistency in a method for sure, but it’s also something that engage your whole self and becomes instinctive. It’s about using all your senses.
Let's put it this way: in a world of more is more, in a world of ultra-processed food, sourdough is “less is more”: it’s slow food at it’s best.
Millika, an inspiring business woman in Qatar
Let’s go back to that day in Al Shaqab and Millika’s dream of opening a bakery. At that time, she already had a lead. And she opened her first café/bakery spot that quickly lived. She was determined to have her own activity and was driven by her passion. She joined Torba Market and during winter months could offer her wonderful loaves and sandwiches to an even growing community of sourdough aficionados.
Then COVID came and she returned to Denmark. Would her bakery dream happen there? No. The call for Qatar was stronger and she came back even more dedicated to build her own business. She would own her bakery one day, for sure. She did the business plan, she found places and partners that let her down, until she found the one who shared the same values: authentic and quality product; and the power of the community. Torba Market founder Fatma AL Khater empowered Millika and her bakery and offered her the Torba Market online platform.
Millika, the well named “the happy baker” is not just another food business opened in Qatar. It’s all about relationships. Look around you and you’ll see that most of her clients are coming back, again and again, becoming a big family of sourdough bread lovers. Her secret for such a success? She sells much more than bread. She sells a bit of friendship and loads of love.
To Follow and purchase:
Web Shop: https://www.torba.qa/
Also found on Snoonu, Talabat and Rafeeq
Under the category of "Groceries" search "Millika"
Estelle Roure
Estelle believes in the pleasure of simple things: the sound of the wind in a rawdat, the sight of a bee in an hibiscus flower, the smell of artisan bread fresh from the oven…And the beauty of having friends around one table to share a homemade meal. When she is not in the lookout food for the body and the soul she works as a career coach and team engagement advisor.
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